RecifAtHome guide
With their long tentacles swaying in the current, Euphyllia are among the most popular LPS corals. They are hardy once established, provided you give them enough space and maintain stable conditions.
In short
- Three main forms: torch, hammer and frogspawn.
- Moderate light (80 to 200 µmol/m²/s) and gentle, indirect flow.
- Leave 10 to 15 cm around them: their tentacles sting neighbouring corals.
- Branching forms are easier to frag than wall forms.
The main species
| Common name | Scientific name | Tentacles |
|---|---|---|
| Torch coral | Euphyllia glabrescens | Long, with rounded tips |
| Hammer coral | Euphyllia ancora, parancora | Hammer- or bean-shaped |
| Frogspawn coral | Euphyllia divisa, paradivisa | Several rounded tips, grape-like |
| Yaeyamaensis | Euphyllia yaeyamaensis | Short, hook-shaped |
Several of these species (ancora, divisa, paradivisa, yaeyamaensis) have been reclassified by scientists into the genus Fimbriaphyllia, but the name Euphyllia remains the most widely used in the trade. Depending on the species, there are branching forms (several heads on a branching skeleton) and, mainly among hammer and frogspawn corals, wall forms (one continuous skeleton).
Placement, lighting and flow
Euphyllia thrive in the middle or lower part of the tank, under 80 to 200 µmol/m²/s PAR. Gentle, indirect flow makes the tentacles sway without flattening them: excessive flow prevents full polyp extension and can tear the tissue.
The tentacles extend at night and can sting neighbouring corals, including other Euphyllia species. Leave 10 to 15 cm around each colony. Several colonies of the same species usually live side by side without problems.
Parameters and feeding
Like all LPS corals, Euphyllia build a calcium carbonate skeleton: keep alkalinity stable (7 to 9 dKH), calcium at 400 to 450 mg/L and magnesium at 1,250 to 1,400 mg/L. They tolerate slightly higher nitrate than SPS. Target feeding once or twice a week (coral food, chopped mysis) encourages faster growth, though it is not essential.
Euphyllia and clownfish
Clownfish often adopt a Euphyllia instead of an anemone. Most colonies tolerate this well; if the tentacles remain retracted for several weeks, separate the fish and coral.
Common problems
- Brown jelly disease: brown, gelatinous tissue that spreads quickly from head to head. Isolate the colony, siphon off the jelly and dip it in a suitable coral treatment; on branching forms, quickly remove the affected head.
- Prolonged retraction: check for sudden changes in alkalinity or salinity, excessive flow, or a fish or crab irritating the coral.
- Tissue loss at the base: often caused by contact with a neighbour or unstable parameters.
Fragging
Branching forms are easy to frag: cut a branch below the head with bone cutters and glue it to a frag plug. Wall forms must be cut with a saw, which is trickier and best left to experienced hobbyists.
Frequently asked questions
Are Euphyllia easy to keep?
Yes, once settled, with stable water, moderate light and gentle flow.
How far apart should Euphyllia be?
Leave 10 to 15 cm around each colony, especially between different species, as their tentacles sting.
Why won't my Euphyllia open?
The most common causes are an alkalinity or salinity swing, flow that is too strong, brown jelly or a fish bothering it.
Do Euphyllia need feeding?
It is not essential, but target feeding once or twice a week speeds up growth.
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Guide written by the RecifAtHome team, coral aquaculture in Roche-lez-Beaupré (France) since 2010. Updated: October 2026.